SBS Paint Process
Up until now the following has been my 'paint process'. I suspect it may change having recently read Sir Jurgington of Jurgy's fabulous wuthering techniques, from which I will probably incorporate his oil dot technique.
So, here is the SBS on how to paint moggles, Hazard-stylee;
1. First priming of the AFV in Halford’s Grey Plastic Primer.
2. Clean & sand any irregularities and fill any gaps.
3. Second priming of the AFV with primer of your choice (I usually use Halford's Grey Plastic Primer).
4. Paint the whole AFV Flat Black, paying particular attention to the recesses and interior of the gun muzzle (I use Tamiya NATO Black here).
5. Pre-shade the whole AFV with a much darker colour than the base-colour; i.e. dark green for Dunkelgelb.
6. AB paint the base-colour on the AFV.
7. Post-highlight the AFV with a lightened version of the base-colour.
8. Create the camouflage scheme including darkening the camouflage colours centrally.
9. Spot Klear to decal sites.
10. Add decals using Micro Sol & Micro Set.
11. Spot Klear over decals.
12. Add three generations of chips/scuffs to all the vehicles in the appropriate places (Black, Burnt Umber and Hull Red for exposed areas of hull under the paintwork, but not on areas of Zimmerit) first using a sponge, then a fine-point brush.
13. Paint the chains Tamiya Flat Brown.
14. Paint the metal parts of the tools & spare trackage Tamiya NATO Black.
15. Paint the MG’s in Tamiya Flat Black.
16. Metallise MG’s, chains, tracks & tools with the three Citadel metallics.
17. Pick out sprocket Wheel teeth and hatch internal handle ‘teeth’ in Citadel metallics.
18. Paint the leather head-bumper on the internal aspect of the cupola hatch with Lifecolor Burnt Umber.
19. Paint the interior aspect of the gun muzzle Rotbraun.
20. Re-rubberise wheels with NATO Black if any over-chipping.
21. Rustify the exhausts with various brown/orange/red acrylic colours.
22. Two-step wooderising to tools; Lifecolor acrylic Flesh for step one, Burnt Umber oils for step two.
23. Reverse lights: flat acrylics, then clear colour acrylics. Lifecolor White to rear reflector & convoy light x 2, then Lifecolor Red to the rear reflector x 2, then Tamiya Flat Green to the convoy light x 2, then Tamiya Clear Red to the rear reflector x 2, then Tamiya Clear Green to the convoy light x 2.
24. Black dry-brush whole vehicles in the appropriate places using Humbrol Matt Black enamel (avoiding the Zimmeritted areas).
25. Let dry for 24 hours.
26. AB a coat of X22.
27. Heavy Burnt Umber oil wash to vehicles.
28. Tamiya smoke/Black shading where necessary over the AFV's – recesses to be shaded, smoke trails to be AB’d to the exhaust area.
29. Lifecolor Matt Lacquer (gently does it).
30. Oil stains to the wheels and chassis using a combination of various glossy acrylics (Tamiya Smoke, Tamiya Black and Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black).
31. Re-metallise tracks & tools with Citadel metallics.
32. Graphite edges.
33. MIG Pigments.
34. Affix the Schürzen (if any).
35. Spot Lifecolor Matt Lacquer to shiny areas of glue where I have affixed the Schürzen (if any).
2. Clean & sand any irregularities and fill any gaps.
3. Second priming of the AFV with primer of your choice (I usually use Halford's Grey Plastic Primer).
4. Paint the whole AFV Flat Black, paying particular attention to the recesses and interior of the gun muzzle (I use Tamiya NATO Black here).
5. Pre-shade the whole AFV with a much darker colour than the base-colour; i.e. dark green for Dunkelgelb.
6. AB paint the base-colour on the AFV.
7. Post-highlight the AFV with a lightened version of the base-colour.
8. Create the camouflage scheme including darkening the camouflage colours centrally.
9. Spot Klear to decal sites.
10. Add decals using Micro Sol & Micro Set.
11. Spot Klear over decals.
12. Add three generations of chips/scuffs to all the vehicles in the appropriate places (Black, Burnt Umber and Hull Red for exposed areas of hull under the paintwork, but not on areas of Zimmerit) first using a sponge, then a fine-point brush.
13. Paint the chains Tamiya Flat Brown.
14. Paint the metal parts of the tools & spare trackage Tamiya NATO Black.
15. Paint the MG’s in Tamiya Flat Black.
16. Metallise MG’s, chains, tracks & tools with the three Citadel metallics.
17. Pick out sprocket Wheel teeth and hatch internal handle ‘teeth’ in Citadel metallics.
18. Paint the leather head-bumper on the internal aspect of the cupola hatch with Lifecolor Burnt Umber.
19. Paint the interior aspect of the gun muzzle Rotbraun.
20. Re-rubberise wheels with NATO Black if any over-chipping.
21. Rustify the exhausts with various brown/orange/red acrylic colours.
22. Two-step wooderising to tools; Lifecolor acrylic Flesh for step one, Burnt Umber oils for step two.
23. Reverse lights: flat acrylics, then clear colour acrylics. Lifecolor White to rear reflector & convoy light x 2, then Lifecolor Red to the rear reflector x 2, then Tamiya Flat Green to the convoy light x 2, then Tamiya Clear Red to the rear reflector x 2, then Tamiya Clear Green to the convoy light x 2.
24. Black dry-brush whole vehicles in the appropriate places using Humbrol Matt Black enamel (avoiding the Zimmeritted areas).
25. Let dry for 24 hours.
26. AB a coat of X22.
27. Heavy Burnt Umber oil wash to vehicles.
28. Tamiya smoke/Black shading where necessary over the AFV's – recesses to be shaded, smoke trails to be AB’d to the exhaust area.
29. Lifecolor Matt Lacquer (gently does it).
30. Oil stains to the wheels and chassis using a combination of various glossy acrylics (Tamiya Smoke, Tamiya Black and Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black).
31. Re-metallise tracks & tools with Citadel metallics.
32. Graphite edges.
33. MIG Pigments.
34. Affix the Schürzen (if any).
35. Spot Lifecolor Matt Lacquer to shiny areas of glue where I have affixed the Schürzen (if any).
I hope this is of use to you; any questions, please post a comment.
Cheers!
Bill Hazard
Pen at the ready. Ah ha! I have your tricks.
ReplyDeleteI love how everybody has their own style. Some techniques are with you for years, others tend to drop off you inventory. It's good practice to note down methods in order to rediscover them at a later date though, must get into the habit.
Just love the process you follow. Mine is so haphazard and never then same :) This is definately the reason you get those fabulous results.
ReplyDeleteJurgs
Hi fellas
ReplyDeleteI have found that if I follow a process it helps the rhythm - I strongly suspect, however, that when I get back in the paintshop the SBS will change - I reckon I will post up the new technique when I formulate it.
Cheers!
Bill